MODELOS: septiembre 2013

KATE BOGUCHASKAIA ()

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

LISANNE DE JONG (JOY)

SPRING 2014

Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron said their starting point for the new Gianfranco Ferré collection was Herb Ritts' photographs of classic Ferré looks and indelible images of Gia Carangi, the tragic supermodel of the late seventies and early eighties whom Angelina Jolie famously played in an HBO film. Gia, the stories go, was deliriously sexy, and as befits their muse, this show today did have a sultry edge.

Draped dresses, blouses, and jackets gave the impression that they'd slip right off with one quick tug of the giant leather obi belts that cinched them. Skirts also flashed skin; one slit was so high it required shorts underneath.

Asymmetric flourishes were a key element in the Ferré oeuvre, but where the late designer often chose stiff architectural fabrics, Piaggi and Citron were more inclined to use fluid ones, like hammered silk, enver satin, and the electric blue Lurex-shot jersey of the show-closing jumpsuit. Nearly everything glistened, which lent the collection a glitz that didn't let up.

This was a satisfying collection in many ways, but you couldn't help but feel that Piaggi and Citron's work would connect with a bigger crowd—which remains an issue for this Italian label—if they eased off the shine now and then and turned their mind more to clothes made for every day.

LISANNE DE JONG (JOY)

KATE BOGUCHASKAIA ()

CRISTINA MANTAS (ELITE)

FOTOS DE STYLE.COM

JOAN SMALLS (IMG)

EMILIO PUCCI SPRING 2014

MIJO MIHALJCIC (IMG)

ANDREEA DIACONU (IMG)

If you had any doubt that pop stars have usurped Hollywood celebrities as the be-all and end-all of the public's fascination, the proof was on Peter Dundas'Emilio Pucci runway tonight: its embrace of streetwear, its celebration of gym clothes, its extreme body confidence.

CHIHARU OKUNUGI (WOMEN)

To us, it had Bad Girl Riri's name all over it. Dundas pointed out that he's been dressing more musicians lately. Rita Ora and Beyoncé both wore his clothes on recent tours. Clearly, the experience has energized him.

JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR (ELITE)

LIYA KEBEDE (D'MANAGEMENT)

Designers up and down the runways have been at this kind of thing this season—Gucci's Frida Giannini in Milan; Alexander Wang in New York. Dundas differentiated himself by mashing up the basketball and scuba and boxing gear with Masai embroideries.

NATALIA SIODMIAK (IMG)

A beaded bustier dress with a draped silk jersey skirt is destined to be a big hit. That was hardly the end of the beading, though. There were a tank top and track pants embroidered in gold on black net, an allover beaded hoodie emblazoned with PUCCI and the year of its birth, 1947, and long dresses made from beaded basketball mesh. It'd take a top-of-the-charts paycheck to afford any of these.

KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

OPHELIA GUILLERMAND (WOMEN)

But maybe the most interesting thing about this collection was that the sporty element wasn't only for show.

ELISABETH ERM (WOMEN)

The parachute silk of a printed parka, the liquid silver material Dundas used for running shorts, the draped sarouel-meets-jogging pants—they were practically weightless. Naysayers will argue that Dundas has ventured too far from Emilio Pucci's born-in-Capri DNA. Really? If there is a twenty-first-century jet set, Rihanna is it.