Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010 Men´s.

"I felt enlightened," said Ann Demeulemeester, by way of explaining her motivation for Spring 2010.

Her enlightenment lightened her presentation, especially after the warrior extravagance of her Fall collection. Two words: no layers. The proposal was as simple as a suit worn shirtless.

The occasional black waistcoat was so discreet as to remain almost completely hidden. "I wanted people to see the garment," Demeulemeester added. Of course, there was more to the collection—but not much.

She was also looking for "sensuality, but in a masculine way."

A sheer cardigan was scattered with sequins. With a matching top, it made a sparkly twinset (i.e., more sensual than masculine).

Long silken coats recalled a boxer's robe. Another coat, in icy-white viscose, was more kimonolike. (There was a pajama set to go with it.) The offering felt edited in every way. It wasn't simply the absence of layers.

Demeulemeester's signature languid proportions had similarly been reined in. And the usual poetry of her presentations was accordingly drastically reduced.

Perhaps it made for a more comprehensible collection in the showroom (the gal's gotta sell, after all), but I imagine ardent fans are shedding a silent tear.