"BE TANNED" VOGUE ITALIA MAY 2011

ALEXA YUDINA (WOMEN)

EMILY WAKE (ELITE) DERECHA

"BE TANNED"

VOGUE ITALIA MAYO 2011

FOTOS DE GREG LOTUS

VPL Resort 2010.

Alexa Yudina

"All of this is about layering and playing and manipulating shapes," said Victoria Bartlett as she flicked through racks in her studio filled with clothes in shades of nude, cream, blue, and gunmetal.

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Bartlett might not have strayed far from the lingerie-based label's DNA, but by staying hyper-focused she produced one of her stronger and more refined collections.

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Resort's jumpsuits, pieced and color-blocked tops, chain-trimmed coats, and cowled toppers hit just the right balance between sportiness and fluid drapery.

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Phi Resort 2010.

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For Resort, Andreas Melbostad injected "a little bit of escape" into Phi's urban DNA.

Alexa Yudina

That didn't make for any huge surprises, but Melbostad's amalgam of scuba, surfer, and biker elements was felicitous (and credit him for trying to keep his prices somewhat realistic—we were told that 85 percent of the collection will retail for under $1,000).

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A tropical print captured the escapist mood, glove-soft washed biker jackets were spot-on, and the collection was full of the carefully considered details—like the surf trunk-inspired lace closures on suede salwar shorts—that have made Phi one of the most talked-about labels in town.

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New for Resort was a small range of tough metal and leather jewelry: It had all the editors abuzz.

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