MODELOS: Kasia Struss

lunes, 11 de noviembre de 2013

VERSACE SPRING 2014

KATLIN AAS (D´MANAGEMENT)

Drake's big up to Donatella closed the Versace show tonight, but it was Nine Inch Nails who soundtracked the rest of the presentation, and it was the sullen mean girls of hard rock, not hip-hop, who shaped the collection.

TILDA LINDSTAM ()

KATYA RIABINKINA (WOMEN)

Maybe that's why the whole thing worked so well. The Reznor situation was close to Donatella's heart. Beforehand, she was as excited as we've ever seen her as she waved around the Versace World Tour 2014 T-shirts that were standouts in the show (she wore one for her walkout).

LINDSEY WIXSON (D´MANAGEMENT)

KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

The gigs listed on the back of the tee ran the usual gamut—New York, London, Paris, etc.—but Jupiter and Venus were also named. Interplanetary Donatella? That sounds like a lost masterpiece from space-rock gods Hawkwind.

SASHA LUSS (WOMEN)

HANNE GABY ODIELE (IMG)

The metal details came hard and heavy in the collection: studs on denim, mesh bandannas, chains round necks or harnessing torsos, hook-and-eye closings.

NADJA BENDER (FASHION)

KATI NESCHER (WHY NOT)

Definitive: Lindsey Wixson in a shag cut, sheer blouse, black bandeau, denim pencil skirt hook-and-eyed down the front like it was stapled shut, and towering platform sandals bound to her feet with elastic bands.

MING XI (ELITE)

JULIA NOBIS (ELITE)

But if the clothes looked tough, they had a surprising softness (there was a lot of linen in the denim), or at least a richness. The hard, hip-slung, sheeny circle skirts that opened the show were actually raffia.

TIAN YI (D´MANAGEMENT)

ZLATA MANGAFIC ()

To be perfectly frank, those opening looks—the collection's manifesto, if you like—threw major shade on the more traditional wrapped and revealing evening looks that closed the show.

IRIS VAN BERNE (NEXT)

NATALIA SIODMIAK (IMG)

That might be the Versace that Donatella imagines people expect from her. But how much better it is when she lets her rock 'n' roll heart run free.

DARIA STROKOUS (WOMEN)

ANNA EWERS (WOMEN)

ZUZANNA BIJOCH (NEXT)

VERSACE SPRING 2014

HOLLIE MAY-SAKER (D´MANAGEMENT)

LOUISE PARKER (D´MANAGEMENT)

LINDSEY WIXSON (D´MANAGEMENT)

sábado, 21 de septiembre de 2013

EMILIO PUCCI SPRING 2014 RTW

JOAN SMALLS (IMG)

EMILIO PUCCI SPRING 2014

MIJO MIHALJCIC (IMG)

ANDREEA DIACONU (IMG)

If you had any doubt that pop stars have usurped Hollywood celebrities as the be-all and end-all of the public's fascination, the proof was on Peter Dundas'Emilio Pucci runway tonight: its embrace of streetwear, its celebration of gym clothes, its extreme body confidence.

CHIHARU OKUNUGI (WOMEN)

To us, it had Bad Girl Riri's name all over it. Dundas pointed out that he's been dressing more musicians lately. Rita Ora and Beyoncé both wore his clothes on recent tours. Clearly, the experience has energized him.

JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR (ELITE)

LIYA KEBEDE (D'MANAGEMENT)

Designers up and down the runways have been at this kind of thing this season—Gucci's Frida Giannini in Milan; Alexander Wang in New York. Dundas differentiated himself by mashing up the basketball and scuba and boxing gear with Masai embroideries.

NATALIA SIODMIAK (IMG)

A beaded bustier dress with a draped silk jersey skirt is destined to be a big hit. That was hardly the end of the beading, though. There were a tank top and track pants embroidered in gold on black net, an allover beaded hoodie emblazoned with PUCCI and the year of its birth, 1947, and long dresses made from beaded basketball mesh. It'd take a top-of-the-charts paycheck to afford any of these.

KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

OPHELIA GUILLERMAND (WOMEN)

But maybe the most interesting thing about this collection was that the sporty element wasn't only for show.

ELISABETH ERM (WOMEN)

The parachute silk of a printed parka, the liquid silver material Dundas used for running shorts, the draped sarouel-meets-jogging pants—they were practically weightless. Naysayers will argue that Dundas has ventured too far from Emilio Pucci's born-in-Capri DNA. Really? If there is a twenty-first-century jet set, Rihanna is it.