MODELOS: Jules Mordovets

domingo, 9 de agosto de 2009

Zac Posen Resort 2010.

Hana Soukupova

Zac Posen eschewed the forties-tinged Victoriana of his Fall collection to focus on more modern, real-world clothes.

Sessilee Lopez

It was a sensible move.

Jules Mordovets

Taking "clean shapes" as his MO, he touched on everything from simple yet sexy stretch canvas sheaths to tops and wrap skirts in mix-and-match floral prints to jersey button-downs and ruched satin pants in hard-candy colors.

Alana Zimmer

He displayed a similar restraint for evening, showing a white tux over a corseted wedding tank dress, as well as a dramatic smoking.

Tiiu Kuik

But Posen can't resist a little nighttime drama and neither can his fans, so there were plenty of party frocks, too.

Mia Rosing

The best, a strapless number in a subtle black and white tire print with chain detailing, took its cues from American couturier Pauline Trigère.

Anna Cleveland

Solange Wilvert

Hana Soukupova

Sessilee Lopez

Jeisa Chiminazzo

Alana Zimmer

Mia Rosing

Tiiu Kuik

Anna Cleveland

Hana Soukupova

Jeisa Chiminazzo

Jules Mordovets

Sessilee Lopez

Tiiu Kuik

Alana Zimmer

Anna Cleveland

Mia Rosing

Hana Soukupova

Solange Wilvert

Jules Mordovets

Ataui Deng

Tiiu Kuik

Alana Kuznetsova

domingo, 12 de julio de 2009

Alexis Mabille Fall 2009 Couture.

Hanna Rundlof (MARILYN)

Alexis Mabille is the young contender at Paris couture—a new talent with a romantic touch, a French sensibility, plenty of skill at his fingertips, and a refreshing way of thinking about merging old ways with new.

Bojana Reljic (IMG)

For Fall, he said he started by imagining a girl waking from a languorous night of dreams tangled in her bedclothes.

Kelli Lumi (MAJOR)

Well, she comes from a very nice home, this one.

Skye Stracke (VIVA)

Apparently, she sleeps on exquisite white Swiss lace-edged linen pillowcases, shell-pink silken sheets, and luxuriously hand-worked cotton coverlets, which were variously cut into everything from fragile dresses to scallop-edged peacoats to drapey tuxedos to simple togas with a beautiful flow about them.

Alina Ilie (IMG)

If that sounds like high-flown concept, Mabille's knack is that he's able to take the precious materials of couture fabrics—weightless organdy, guipure, and elaborate broderie anglaise—and treat them with a degree of reality that defuses theoretical grandeur.

Jourdana Phillips (SLIDES)

"I wanted it to look loose and casual-fitting, so she can wear things with the attitude of pulling on a T-shirt," he said. "I tried to play with simple graphic shapes, so everything floats. She's not such a girly-girl."

Jules Mordovets (IMG)

The collection also demonstrates an ambitious range—Mabille can turn out structured cocktail bustier dresses for ingenues as well as smart tailoring and chic evening suits for sophisticates.

Siri Crafoord (VIVA)

The show could've benefited from a tighter edit, but that's forgivable from a designer who's still stretching his wings. Credit to him for developing a signature, and for the pragmatic focus that underpins his enterprise.

Samantha Rayner (NATHALIE)

"It's not just a question of having fun. I have couture customers, but I'm also offering ready-to-wear options alongside these things," he said. "I want to build a business."

Daria Strokous (IMG)

He's certainly come a long way from being pigeonholed as the guy who does cute things with bows and bow ties. Now the bows are the basis of a large collection of bags, jewelry, and accessories—and are still evident in the satin sashes and shoe decorations sprinkled through the runway collection. But to judge from the growing accomplishment of this show, Mabille's set to go a lot further still.