MODELOS: Thomas Hassler

lunes, 6 de septiembre de 2010

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SPRING 2011 MENSWEAR

An all-white collection of clothes that cleaved close to the body signaled a change on theAnn Demeulemeester catwalk. Gone were the shadowy, poetic layers, replaced by pieces so clinical and precise they wouldn't have looked out of place in a Viennese fencing academy, or on the attendants of an upscale insane asylum (the white breastplates also looked like deconstructed straitjackets). Where there was volume, as in a silken parka or a jacquard coat, it was kept in check by a wide elasticated cummerbund that could probably work Spanx-like wonders on a wayward midriff, as well.

Marcel Castenmiller

The show seemed over in a flash, but while the audience was uncertainly applauding, it started up again, duplicated detail for detail in black, with the cotton of the first course often replaced by leather. "I wanted to see what would happen," said Demeulemeester of the switcheroo. "Things look quite different. It's a different emotion."

Ethan James

She was almost right. Of course, white cotton and black leather are scarcely of the same family, but while you might expect the leather to have a dark, vaguely threatening cast, it was extraordinary how sinister the purest white could look as well. It was an intriguing experiment. And we're glad that Ann does these things, so we don't have to.

Toms Silke

Tomek Szczukiecki

BENONI LOOS (MAJOR)

Cole Mohr

Hubert Rapisardi

Thomas Hassler

GERHARD FREIDL

Ethan James

Marcel Castenmiller

Toms Silke

martes, 24 de agosto de 2010

VERSACE SPRING 2011 MENSWEAR

The eighties hold a powerful sway over the house of Versace, and Martyn Bal, new man on the company's menswear block, certainly didn't resist their appeal in his debut collection. Inspired by the photos Bruce Weber took of rockabilly boys at the end of that decade and drawing on references from old Versus and Jeans Couture collections, Bal offered up a Stray Cats version of the Versace man.

Thomas Hassler

It was a universe away from where this guy had been heading of late (when Alexandre Plokhov last had some creative input), but Bal said after the show that he anticipated a new, younger customer would see the appeal of his proposals.

William Eustace

These included faux-bib-fronted shirts, a drape jacket with a shawl collar in black leather, jackets and trousers in sheeny tonic fabric, low-slung leather pants with fringes trailing from the side seams, and a big cream overcoat, also bedecked with showgirl fringe. A donkey jacket in red leather looked grown-up by comparison.

RYAN KENNEDY

Bal is an alumnus of Dior Homme, and the new-wave leanings of that label clearly informed his work here, in items like jackets with a cutaway, crossover closing. But the collection's clearest successes—the optical silk shirts, the graphic section of swimsuits and silk robes in a black-and-white Vorticist pattern—were those that were most "Versace."