J. MENDEL PRE-FALL 2010.

J. MENDEL

PRE-FALL 2010 COLLECTION

"I'm really having a 'night moment,' " Gilles Mendel said of his pre-fall collection.

His core clientele—starlets readying for awards season, included—will surely be drawn to the draped gowns and elegant cocktail frocks Mendel has made his name with, this season in metallic golds and stoplight reds that almost call to mind the twinkling lights of a city after sunset.

But the designer wasn't focused solely on evening; he smartly experimented in other areas by playing with fabric combinations.

A cropped wool tuxedo jacket, for example, got a youthful twist with jersey insets, and the furs were not exactly your grandmother's variety: A mix of sable, muskrat, and raccoon jazzed up a standard winter topper, while a cropped multi-fur trimmed jacket with removable leather sleeves was about as hip a pelt as we've seen.

MODEL: ANGELIKA KOCHEVA

MODEL: DANIELA MIRZAC

CAROLINA HERRERA PRE-FALL 2010.

CAROLINA HERRERA

PRE-FALL 2010 COLLECTION.

"I wanted everything light as a feather," Carolina Herrera said about pre-fall.

MODEL: AUDI

Where better to look for inspiration than the tango? The designer used a colorful 1920's print of dancers locked arm in arm for both a crepe de chine cocktail dress and a floor-length shirt gown, and its bold hues—lava red, dandelion yellow, and Directoire blue—informed the rest of a cheerful collection that played to the designer's strengths.

Herrera's tweed separates are so airy you can practically see through them, though her lineup was mostly dresses: above-the-knee blouson shifts and fitted sheaths, some with embroidered brooches, for day; and, for after eight, a moiré draped one-shoulder column and a floral-print jacquard dot fils coupe number sure to see a lot of action on the gala circuit.

MODEL: YANA KARPOVA.

The pièce de résistance was a strapless multi-stripe gown with long train made from a single piece of draped duchesse satin.

It wasn't necessarily made for dancing, but it would make an unforgettable entrance.

MODEL: ALYONA OSMANOVA.

MODEL: OLGA SHERER.

MODEL: AMINATA NIARIA.

MODEL: DARIA STROKOUS.

MODEL: RIANNE TEN HAKEN.

CALVIN KLEIN PRE-FALL 2010.

CALVIN KLEIN

PRE-FALL 2010 COLLECTION.

Francisco Costa scaled down his presentation, opting for an informal showing instead of a runway, but he didn't skimp an inch on the fabric or construction of the luxe basics in his pre-fall lineup.

His blouson toggle coats and jackets are cut from a double-face cashmere wool that's a dream to touch, while his slim, flat-front pants are completely dart-less: "It took a long time to get the fit right," he said. "It's all in the cut around the butt, the thighs."

Also innovative were his matte cashmere knits, made on a circular knitting machine to create a relaxed, cocoonlike silhouette.

Overall, Costa takes a less experimental approach to this collection than he does his catwalk shows—a strategy not without its benefits.

How's this for versatile: Hanging on the racks were navy, ruby, and nectarine versions of many of the 17 black and white looks he put on models.

Still, there was plenty of fashion with a capital F, notably in the easy-chic, pleated georgette dresses that were actually tops worn with ankle-length skirts.

MODEL: JAC