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domingo, 29 de marzo de 2015

ETRO FALL 2015 MENSWEAR

ETRO F / W 2015


MENSWEAR 2015 RTW


Milan men's fashion week is an exotic bazaar of disparate international tribes united by their appetite for fine, fast-selling gentlemen's apparel. So details can be lost in translation—such as when Kean Etro set out to explain a little about the thinking behind this Etro collection.



A blissed-out, philosophical soul, Etro decided to lead in with the rhino illustration on his invitation. He said: "That rhino is a symbol of the rhino that came to Europe in the early 1500s, was painted, and became a sensation." 



"The one Albrecht Dürer drew?" a reporter asked. "Yes…giraffes too were important," Etro gamely replied.



Linguistic dissonance be damned: This was a collection that needed no translation and was the strongest Etro has shown for a while. 



Tautly constrained to a palette of browns and khaki touched by purple, yellow, and red, Etro used his family estate of rich but easily overwhelming pattern with the lightest possible hand.



There was just the faintest suggestion of paisley shadowing the worn horizontal corduroy outerwear, and the swirls in the evening suits at the end were obscured and enticing rather than amplified and alarming. 



Great on the flesh were a series of wool-tweed track pants that combined mature material and youthful silhouettes—see looks 29, 30, 34, and 35. 



Perhaps the rich, red ponyskin ensemble—"remember, it is a cow, not pony," Etro cautioned—was a tad de trop, but this was a deft and interesting menagerie of clothes that pulsed with soul.













STYLE.COM

sábado, 21 de septiembre de 2013

EMILIO PUCCI SPRING 2014 RTW

 JOAN SMALLS (IMG)

EMILIO PUCCI SPRING 2014

 MIJO MIHALJCIC (IMG)

ANDREEA DIACONU (IMG)

If you had any doubt that pop stars have usurped Hollywood celebrities as the be-all and end-all of the public's fascination, the proof was on Peter Dundas'Emilio Pucci runway tonight: its embrace of streetwear, its celebration of gym clothes, its extreme body confidence.  

CHIHARU OKUNUGI (WOMEN)

To us, it had Bad Girl Riri's name all over it. Dundas pointed out that he's been dressing more musicians lately. Rita Ora and Beyoncé both wore his clothes on recent tours. Clearly, the experience has energized him. 

 JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR (ELITE)

LIYA KEBEDE (D'MANAGEMENT)

Designers up and down the runways have been at this kind of thing this season—Gucci's Frida Giannini in Milan; Alexander Wang in New York. Dundas differentiated himself by mashing up the basketball and scuba and boxing gear with Masai embroideries. 

NATALIA SIODMIAK (IMG)

A beaded bustier dress with a draped silk jersey skirt is destined to be a big hit. That was hardly the end of the beading, though. There were a tank top and track pants embroidered in gold on black net, an allover beaded hoodie emblazoned with PUCCI and the year of its birth, 1947, and long dresses made from beaded basketball mesh. It'd take a top-of-the-charts paycheck to afford any of these. 

 KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

OPHELIA GUILLERMAND (WOMEN)

But maybe the most interesting thing about this collection was that the sporty element wasn't only for show. 

ELISABETH ERM (WOMEN)

The parachute silk of a printed parka, the liquid silver material Dundas used for running shorts, the draped sarouel-meets-jogging pants—they were practically weightless. Naysayers will argue that Dundas has ventured too far from Emilio Pucci's born-in-Capri DNA. Really? If there is a twenty-first-century jet set, Rihanna is it. 

 DARIA STROKOUS (WOMEN)

 GRACE MAHARY (IMG)

 KATI NESCHER (WHY NOT)

 NADJA BENDER (FASHION)

 LEOMI ANDERSON (MONSTER)

 JULIA NOBIS (ELITE)

 JOSEPHINE SKRIVER (MONSTER)


 MAGDA LAGUINGE (NEXT)

 AMANDA LAINE (WHY NOT)

 BETTE FRANKE (WHY NOT)

 MARINE DELEEUW (WHY NOT)

 KATYA RIABINKINA (WOMEN)

 MAARTJE VERHOEF (WOMEN)

 MALAIKA FIRTH (WOMEN)

 SASHA LUSS (ELITE)

 LISA VERBERGHT (WOMEN)

 ANDREEA DIACONU (IMG)


 LINDSEY WIXSON (D'MANAGEMENT)

 ANNA EWERS (WOMEN)

 ELISABETH ERM (WOMEN)

 JULIA FRAUCHE (NEXT)

  DARIA STROKOUS (WOMEN)


 JULIA NOBIS (ELITE)


  KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)


 JOAN SMALLS (IMG)

 DEVON WINDSOR (IMG)

 LIYA KEBEDE (D'MANAGEMENT)


MALGOSIA BELA (NEXT)

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