Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Kamila Filipcikova. Mostrar todas las entradas
Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Kamila Filipcikova. Mostrar todas las entradas

viernes, 10 de septiembre de 2010

RICHARD CHAI LOVE SPRING 2011 RTW

JAC JAGACIAK (IMG)

For Spring, Richard Chai flipped the script on the typical fashion strategy of putting your flashy best on the runway while keeping those more subtle, plain-Jane pieces at the showroom for buyers' eyes only. "All the prints, the embellishment, the embroidery, all of those things are still in the collection," said Chai, speaking at his studio the day before his clothes hit the catwalk. "But what I'm showing on the runway is not that." That might sound counterintuitive, but the approach has its benefits. When you're not distracted by the sparkle of a sequin, your eye can focus on form—and form was definitely the story chez Chai this season.
FRIDA GUSTAVSSON (IMG)

The look could be described as chic urban nomad—all fluid layers built on a foundation of Chaplin-esque trousers, long and full Martha Graham-inspired skirts, flared culottes, and palazzo pants. Chai called the palette of nudes, grays, and blues "super-neutral," and in lieu of color, he created interest by playing with transparency in sheer-backed tops and by layering nylon body stockings throughout. The effect was a ghostly deconstruction, but that liquid element was grounded by sporty-sexy bandeau tops and tailoring in the form of elongating blazers and trenches in weathered-looking technical fabrics.

SHU PEI QIN (NEXT)

There might have been nary a sequin in sight, but the combination of transparency and layering did push the look in a fashion-y direction. Yet Chai insisted that, when dissected, the collection was full of simply great pieces to wear. "It's an amazing trenchcoat, an amazing T-shirt—that's the premise of Love," he said. The trick, of course, is to lend those items a fresh point of view, and happily, Chai continues to stand out in the same-y contemporary world.

JULIJA STEPONAVICIUTE (IMG)

HEIDI MOUNT (IMG)

Kamila Filipcikova

SOFIA PARAS (FORD)

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Ming Xi

Chloe

Anabela Belikova

Liu Wen

Ruby Aldridge

Ilva Heitmann

SIMONE

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Shena Moulton

Valerija Kelava

Irina Kulikova

Fei Fei Sun

Naomi Preizler

ROSE CORDERO

Alana Zimmer (FORD)

Suvi Koponen

Joan Smalls

Sigrid Agren

Patricia van der Vliet

JENNY SINKABERG

Melissa Tammerijn

RICHARD CHAI

miércoles, 14 de octubre de 2009

Giles Deacone Spring 2010 RTW.

Daphne Guinness

Winning the French ANDAM award may only have shuffled Giles Deacon to the graveyard slot on the Paris schedule, but he made the very best of the situation with a spoofy-spooky Scooby-Doo-ish show starring his very own Daphne (Guinness, that is).

Bregje Heinen (WOMEN)

Debuting on the bottom rung of the Paris schedule after years of being top dog in London didn't faze this most genial of designers. Instead, it made him sharpen up his act so that the cute, sixties-cartoonish, neon, pastel, and metallic collection full of delightful prom dresses turned out to be the first truly coherent outing of his career—with tons of playful accessories thrown in.

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

"You have to make it more concise here," he said. "I just wanted to do more real-life, obtainable clothes." Deacon's line is now produced under a new license deal with the Italian manufacturer Castor SRL.


Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

That means his deliciously detailed peach, apricot, and lime froufrou dance dresses and Monroe-ish sheaths in draped tulle or 3-D "dragon-stitch knit" (a genius design by Sid Bryan, a London specialist friend) may hit stores at a competitive speed next spring.

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

They deserve a place, too—as do the nutty, teenager-ish accessories: Cutler and Gross "Scooby" sunglasses with pink printed frames, spider and scorpion jewelry, neon pegs and gold-plated bulldog clips to stick in hair and festoon collars—not to mention really silly soft-toy dinosaur bags.

Shu Pei Qin (NEXT)

Like so much else this season, Deacon's collection is young, and it has a believable, cheerful personality that should see him holding his own. As a footnote to the season, Deacon also smartly confirmed the new shoe shape that will come as a blessed relief to all the platform-weary fashion foot soldiers who are limping home from the field on planes and trains right now. It is, of course, the kitten heel.


Rianne Ten Haken (WOMEN)

Deacon's version is attached to a long, low, pointy plastic and snakeskin last—provided by Christian Louboutin. Let's hope he makes enough to slake demand.

Sharon Kavjian

Natasha Poly (WOMEN)

Egle Tvirbutaite (NEXT)

Dree Hemingway (ELITE)

Anna Selezneva (SILENT)

Sara Blomqvist (VIVA)

Jeneil Williams (FORD)

Ginta Lapina (WOMEN)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Vlada Roslyakova (WOMEN)

Rose Cordero

Iris Strubegger (WOMEN)

Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)

Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

Irina Kulikova (IMG)

Daphne Guinness

Bregje Heinen (WOMEN)

Magdalena Frackowiak (ELITE)

Natasha Poly (WOMEN)

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

Sara Blomqvist (VIVA)

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

Rianne Ten Haken (WOMEN)

Egle Tvirbutaite (NEXT)

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

Ieva Laguna (WOMEN)

Sharon Kavjian

Rose Cordero

Jeneil Williams (FORD)

Anna Selezneva (SILENT)

Kirsty Hume (VIVA)

Dree Hemingway (ELITE)

Mirte Maas (WOMEN)

Patricia van der Vliet (ELITE)

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