domingo, 28 de junio de 2009

Dsquared² Spring 2010 Men´s.

Marlon Teixeira

Dean and Dan Caten are about to star in their own reality TV show, but they got a head start with the riotously shtick-laden live commentary they provided for their latest spectacle.

If fashion falls through for them, there's always a living to be made as stand-up comics in the Catskills.

The theme this time around was a summer campout, and, before you say a word, there wasn't a double entendre the twins hadn't anticipated.

Francisco Lachowski

Ants in their pants, out in the woods, surrounded by half-naked studs? They stuck glittery little insects all over a well-packed Speedo.

That kind of brass is a large part of their charm.

It's scarcely sensible (never mind polite) to point out that we've seen it all before—the gravity-defying denims, the short shorts, the fetishistically perfect outerwear, the 12-packed, porn-ready models—when the Catens are clearly loving every minute of being fashion's (metaphorically) biggest and best showfolk.

Besides, step back from the ringside and there will always be the sexy jean, the neat little blouson, the perfect parka, the cheeky mix of formal and casual (tux jacket with camo shorts? makes perfect sense in the Dsquared² universe).

New this season was a philanthropic commitment to helping their guy make sense of all those layers.

The Catens stitched together all the components of their signature sloppy chic—visible boxer waistband, shorts, long johns—so he will no longer have to fish for those pieces on the floor of wherever it is he sleeps.

Marlon Teixeira


Francisco Lachowski

sábado, 27 de junio de 2009

D&G Spring 2010 Men´s.

When he was a boy, Stefano Gabbana's vision of fashion nirvana was Fiorucci, so you can imagine how he felt to be parading D&G's re-edition of the brand's T-shirts down the catwalk in front of Elio Fiorucci himself.

Dolce and Gabbana took their cue from the rampant cowgirl in one of Fiorucci's most iconic images.

The catwalk was appropriately sunbaked, the soundtrack was C&W, and the models were rodeo-ready in chambray shirts, faded denims, and cowboy boots (some with spurs).

Then the designers pushed the theme a little.

The jeans got studded, the studs got leathered, and the D&G DNA kicked in with razor-sharp tailoring, like a shawl-collared jacket in pinstripes, or a three-piece gabardine number.

Piped hems and leather appliqué juiced up old favorites (the peak-lapel jacket, the jean shirt) and plaid shirts were deceptively, appealingly gauzy.

The only jarring note was a denim britches moment.

The duo's by-now-rote evening finale featured possum-soft brown, rust, and aubergine velvet jackets with jeans.

If only Brokeback Mountain's Ennis del Mar had met Domenico and Stefano before his life went horribly wrong…

Nate Gill

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