MODELOS: Thiago Santos

jueves, 2 de septiembre de 2010

Z ZEGNA SPRING 2011 MENSWEAR

JANIS

Following the Ermenegildo Zegna show at La Triennale, the curtains parted to reveal greenery, and cloth covering the glass ceiling was pulled back to reveal sky, instantly changing the atmosphere for the Z Zegnahalf of the presentation. Letting nature in was an apt introduction to a collection that made much of the natural in its color palette (chalk, slate, basalt, terra-cotta) and fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, mohair), and maybe even in its attention to outerwear—you're going to wear a parka outside, aren't you?

NILS BUTLER (WHY NOT MANAGEMENT)

There's something organic about the way Z Zegna has evolved from a technical experiment into something much more genial and human under the stewardship of Alessandro Sartori.

DENNIS

There was still an extraordinary amount of fabric technology in the clothes today (hybridizing different weights and textures of cloth, for instance, or layering super-light fabrics to create a 3-D effect with print), but what was most striking was their folksiness. They all looked well lived in, the jackets slightly roomy, the trousers slim but slouchy. Or maybe it was that terra-cotta with its muddy warmth.

COREY BAPTISTE (D`MANAGEMENT)

BORYS

LEO

ARTHUR

JAMES HAMPSON (FASHION)

ANDRE BENTZER (ELITE)

MELKER

VLADIMIR IVANOV (ELITE)

OSCAR SPENDRUP (ELITE)

DOMINIC

FABIAN

GERHARD FREIDL (I LOVE MODELS)

MARTIN LANDGREVE

CHRIS PULLIAM (FASHION)

ROBIN

TOM P

WENCESLAS

WILLIAM EUSTACE (ELITE)

SEAN HARJU (I LOVE MODELS)

ARAM GEVORGYAN (I LOVE MODELS)

FELIX SCHOPGENS (ELITE)

ROBERT RAE (FASHION)

JEREMY YOUNG (FASHION)

TIM

CLEMENT

JAMIE CONDAY

BORYS STAROSZ (I LOVE MODELS)

THIAGO SANTOS

NICOLAS RIPOLL (WHY NOT MODEL)

HENRIK

ANTHONY MURREL

PAVEL

TOM LANDER

JOHANNES LINDER

THOMAS HOEFNAGELS (ELITE)

DANNY ARTER (FASHION)

JULIAN HENNIG (D`MANAGEMENT)

MALTE

SAM

JAMES SMITH (FASHION)

ADNAN DJINOVIC (FORD)

LINUS GUSTIN (FASHION)

ALESSANDRO SARTORI

domingo, 22 de agosto de 2010

HERMÈS SPRING 2011MENSWEAR.

Designer Véronique Nichanian pressed all the Spring 2011 buttons with her collection for Hermès, from the incredible whiteness of the outfits that opened and closed the show to the incredible lightness of a coat, a jacket, and windbreaker cut from a material called "technical madras"—so fine it was almost sheer.

MAX MOTTA

Then there were the shorts, the sandals, the summer skins, and the requisite accent of intense color (here a green that Nichanian called mint, but was more emerald).

Jeremy Young

Hermès is the quiet storm of the luxury world, but rather than resting on her platinum laurels Nichanian has steadily loosened the stays of heritage.

This season, she introduced vêtements hybrids, or hybrid clothing, like the shirt with a blouson back, or a diagonal zip closing, or a hood.

Charlie France

The same kind of relaxed spirit dictated notch lapels on her double-breasted jackets (a small detail, but it felt modern).

The house is legendary for its skins, but the company's founders could hardly have imagined suede being used for a bright green T-shirt, a tobacco-colored camp shirt, or sand-toned pajamas.

The emblematic Hermès horse bit, meanwhile, was printed in an impressionistic blur on a silk shirt. Again, that felt like the kind of update that wouldn't frighten the horses of the traditional clients, while it just might attract a new, younger customer, the juiciest prey on the luxury frontier.