OMG, Kiss just walked in! First time ever at a fashion show. No, wait. It's just looky-likeys. That's not Gene. Or Paul. And that other guy's ass is way too big.
Anyway, ersatz Kiss still caused a frisson when they parked their ample behinds in the front row of the Gaultier show today, letting the world know that what was about to follow wasn't going to be run of the mill.
"An homage to all the pop stars of the eighties," proclaimed the show notes and, given that Gaultier dressed the pop queen of them all in her finest hour, expectations ran about as high as they've run for a Gaultier show in a good decade or so.
Did he disappoint? Um, the show was a fabulous cabaret; the clothes were, in many cases, an impressively accurate redaction of the style of the original performers. But the relevance for now? Well, given that no one in their right mind is going to step out into the street in a one-leg Ziggy Stardust jumpsuit or a little sheer something from the Blonde Ambition tour, the fancy-dress element was a little marginalizing.
MILAGROS SCHMOLL (NATHALIE)
Gaultier's tribute to the eighties opened with Grace Jones, stepping straight off the Nightclubbing album cover in variations of the designer's tuxedo looks. Then came Hannelore Knuts as Annie Lennox in her "Sweet Dreams" incarnation, or, in actuality, a pinstriped Gaultier pantsuit.
MARIA KASHLEVA (NATHALIE)
Next, Madonna, and that iconic cone bra attached to a black pencil skirt. So far, so true to Gaultier's own design sensibility. But when Karlie Kloss stepped out as Boy George, a meta disconnect kicked in and the show never really recovered as a coherent fashion statement. It continued to thrive, however, as an entertainment.
There were some gorgeous and witty pieces—the Orientalism of a pleated A-line bustier gown, the trompe l'oeil printed denims, the black raffia sheath—but the fashion was subsumed by the concept. It peaked—or troughed—with the ABBA bit.
Within seconds, Karlie Kloss was trolling the catwalk in a barely-there metallic blue outfit that unwittingly conveyed the notion of things falling apart.
YASMIN WARSAME (IMG)
The Euro-disco legend Amanda Lear was thevedette of the finale. Her appearance thrilled the locals but left everyone else vaguely perplexed. In a way, a perfect metaphor for the collection: the familiar and the incomprehensible, meeting but not matching.
It scarcely seems possible that there could be such a material as "transparent crocodile," but if anyone is capable of producing such stuff, it would have to beHermès. And the designer best placed to use it would naturally be Jean Paul Gaultier. And he would instinctively cut it into a sharply tailored jacket.
That particular item was one of the more mesmerizing pieces in Gaultier's swan song for Hermès today (Christophe Lemaire takes these luxurious reins next season), but there were plenty more in a show that made for a fabulous last hurrah.
The collection also made full use of the house's horsey heritage, starting with the showbizzy opener of a dressage corps going through its paces under a mass of chandeliers. Then Karlie Kloss, every designer's favorite equestrienne, stalked out in second-skin black leather, brandishing a riding crop. Her lean, sexy, and ever-so-fetishistic look set the tone for the whole show.
Where there was volume, as in a white organza coat trailing away in scarf points, or a flowing gown in ombré chiffon, or the capes of mousseline that swathed the finale, it merely emphasized the intense body-consciousness of the rest. Which meant the key piece was a leather basque, highlighting the waist, attenuating the hard, precise silhouette.
Gaultier is a master tailor, and here he maximized his talent to create an austere but sensuous glamour. His singular twist was to build interest into the back of a garment, baring skin with jackets and tops that crisscrossed like wings. If they might be classified as a fashion bridge too far—along with the body harnesses, the jodhpur shorts, and those basques—there was temptation aplenty elsewhere.
Erin O'Connor (ELITE)
See the ultra-high-waisted pants, chic leather-fronted cardigans, gorgeous suede jackets, and leather skirts, not to mention some splendidly sleek accessories that were worthy additions to the classic Hermès carryalls.