MODELOS: Olga Sherer

lunes, 27 de septiembre de 2010

Dsquared² Spring 2011 RTW

KARMEN PEDARU

The first look out, a crystal-encrusted sweater and hot-pant set, suggested we were in for a vampy romp in the style of Dean and Dan Caten's last show—none too subtle and without much in common with what the brothers sell so successfully in stores.

SASHA PIVOVAROVA

This time, though, the opening was not a sign of things to come. While the temptation to turn up the sizzle on the runway must be hard for these showmen to resist, resist it they did. Instead, they struck a balance, serving up preppy tailoring with a winking sex appeal rather than a full-on assault.

Nimue Smit

The flat oxfords were a big surprise, especially after Fall's "spinal cord" heels, but they worked with the show's pantsuits as well as winning basics like boxy khakis and plaid bermuda shorts (teamed with a denim and a white cotton poplin button-down, respectively).

Vlada Roslyakova

The straw hats and oversize glasses, in contrast, were silly; the collection's boyish vibe would've come across without them.

Olga Sherer

Upping the ante for after dark—and no one would begrudge them that—the designers sent out a daringly bare white waistcoat worn with black satin short shorts and a backless minidress, alongside more covered-up pieces like a tuxedo shirtdress, a Le Smoking, and a trompe l'oeil evening coat-cum-cape. Even a tomboy likes to let her hair down once in a while.

Charlotte di Calypso

Maud Welzen

Frida Gustavsson

BIANCA BALTI

Anna Selezneva

Kristina Romanova

Constance Jablonski

Sophie Srej

CHANEL IMAN

Snejana Onopka

Samantha Gradoville

Ieva Laguna

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Ming Xi

Nimue Smit

Auguste Tomasuite Abeliunaite

Olga Sherer

Vlada Roslyakova

Charlotte di Calypso

Maud Welzen

BIANCA BALTI

Kristina Romanova

Sophie Srej

Constance Jablonski

CHANEL IMAN

Anna Selezneva

Snejana Onopka

KARMEN PEDARU

SASHA PIVOVAROVA

Dean and Dan Caten

ICEBERG SPRING 2011 RTW

Melissa Tammerijn

Paolo Gerani and his new design team have traded in Hitchcock blondes for muses a little closer to home—Lauren Hutton, Faye Dunaway, and Farrah Fawcett, all of whom starred in the ad campaigns Oliviero Toscani lensed for Iceberg in the late seventies.

Sasha Pivovarova

That meant there was a pretty big disconnect between last season and this one, but it landed the label smack-dab in the middle of things in Milan, which is never a bad place to be.

Samantha Gradoville

What was good: the fact that Gerani and company's take on fashion's favorite decade was more impressionistic than literal. Oversize men's blazers with pushed-up sleeves, a sea blue cotton jumpsuit with embroidered straps, silk button-downs tucked into A-line skirts—we've seen enough of this sort of thing lately for it to have shed its retro associations.

Melodie Monrose

But with so many labels all over the price spectrum doing the seventies, which elements provided a compelling reason for shoppers to seek out Iceberg next spring? Not the beaded and feathered macramé tanks and scarf tops. Simpler was better here, and there was nothing simpler or better in this collection than a faded denim elastic-waist dress.