MODELOS: Sara Blomqvist

miércoles, 14 de octubre de 2009

Yves Saint Laurent SPRING 2010 RTW

Mirte Maas (WOMEN)

The drive toward, as the Yves Saint Laurent program notes put it, "a natural and honest chic, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism" is picking up speed during the Paris shows.

Nanou Vandecruys (SILENT)

Stefano Pilati, whose intellectual aspirations always lead him to think long and hard about contemporaneity, is one whose natural urge is to belong to that vanguard.

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

But what does it actually involve in his case? A stark, monochrome pencil-skirted suit and an austere tuxedo? Or a pair of conceptual lederhosen and a romantic, strawberry-scattered dress? For Spring, YSL had both. And that was odd.

Sara Blomqvist (VIVA)

The logic linking the two (if not more) sides of the collection was hard to see. Some of it appeared to stem from the Saint Laurent archive, albeit at a great remove: the strawberries, flounces, and peasant influences can be traced back to the seventies, though Pilati's bunchy off-the-shoulder dresses were abstracted from the source and eroticized with black leather short shorts and fishnet stockings.

Katharina Friedrich (WOMEN)

But there wasn't enough of it to get into any sort of stride, and when a single white sleeveless coat-dress appeared with what seemed to be purple djellaba embroidery on the shoulder, it was an idea that was left hanging, without further development.

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

On the other hand, there were more easily understood city dresses and suitings—like a regular periwinkle long-sleeved linen dress and the belted white pantsuit that opened the show—interspersed with a continuation of the edgy black leather pieces Pilati showed last winter.

Mina Cvetkovic (WOMEN)

Then, to add to it all, there was a reversion to some of the clerical references he brought up at the beginning of his tenure: surplicelike sleeves, priestly white blouses, and almost ceremonial minimized capes.

Tao Okamoto (WOMEN)

The parts will likely separate into perfectly sellable working-woman pieces for the stores, and the more edgy elements will get bundled off to editorial shoots. But in terms of a cohesive statement, they never quite seemed to relate.

Kendra Spears (ELITE)

Vlada Roslyakova (WOMEN)

Jules Mordovets (IMG)

Kelly Moreira (ELITE)

Aline Weber (WOMEN)

Valeria Dmitrienko (WOMEN)

Alina Ilie (IMG)

Samantha Gradoville (MAJOR)

Katlin Aas (MARILYN)

Tati Cotliar (NEXT)

Jacquelyn Jablonski (ELITE)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Kim Noorda (VIVA)

Alex Sandor (METROPOLITAN)

Anya Kazakova (MARILYN)

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

Ginta Lapina (WOMEN)

Chanel Iman (VIVA)

Liu Wen (MARILYN)

Sheila Marquez (WOMEN)

Maria Kashleva (NATHALIE)

Michaela Kocianova (ELITE)

Elena Melnik (SILENT)

Hanne Gaby Odiele (WOMEN)

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

Kelsey Van Mook (NEXT)

Heidi Mount (IMG)

Patricia van der Vliet (ELITE)

Nicole Hofman (MARILYN)

Mariacarla Boscono (VIVA)

Caroline Trentini (IMG)

Iris Strubegger (WOMEN)

Karmen Pedaru (NEXT)

Yulia Kharlaponova (WOMEN)

Stefano Pilati

domingo, 27 de septiembre de 2009

Giorgio Armani Spring 2010 RTW.

It was hard not to read between the lines at Giorgio Armani's exuberant Spring collection.

Jana Zapletalova

As reported, the designer was ill with hepatitis earlier this year, but he's on the road to recovery now, and he sent out a colorful, youthful lineup that veritably shouted, "I'm feeling just peachy."

Sara Blomqvist

The show started off predictably enough with a jacket: a sharp, narrowly cut red, blue, and white houndstooth number, worn over a deep plunge-front top, loose-fitting pants cropped above the ankles, and flat sandals.

Tonia Molyavko

Lots more jackets followed, some with origami-like pinches and folds at the upper arm (a subtle way to do the bold shoulder).

Angelika Kocheva

Others were woven together from delicate ribbon, and still more glinted with allover crystal embroidery. They were worn with that casual (not-quite-a-) sweatpant or baggy pleat-front skorts.

It was mostly after-dark where the color came in. In tune with the season, Armani kept everything above the knee, adding panels of multicolor sequins to the bodices of fuchsia and royal blue taffeta numbers and beading every square centimeter of others.

R'el Dade

That should please the party set tremendously. They'll simply trade in the flat sandals the models wore on the runway for spiked heels.

Agnese Zogla

This wasn't the classic, elegant, timeless Armani that his customers love him for; the designer was after something else here: a good bit of fun.