MODELOS: MELISSA TAMMERIJN

miércoles, 15 de junio de 2011

GUCCI RESORT 2012

KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

MELISSA TAMMERIJN (NEW YORK MODEL)

MARTHA STRECK (WOMEN)

KASIA STRUSS (WOMEN)

Frida Giannini checked off a lot of current trends with her Resort collection. She had the acid brights: Yellow shorts were paired with a blush-colored python motorcycle jacket and a trompe l'oeil dress combined that same shade of chartreuse with nude and black. She had the mixed, clashing prints: A black and white tropical-pattern top came tucked into purple and white paisley drawstring pants. And she did her own take on nautical, with red, white, and black (rather than navy) separates.

The show notes explained that Giannini looked to photos from Gucci's archives dating to the fifties and sixties, but she treaded lightly. Her Fall show, for example, felt much more strongly influenced by the seventies than these clothes did by her new decades of reference. In fact, it doesn't get much more modern than Giannini's relaxed take on the cocktail suit, with its white jacket, gold T-shirt, and silky black drawstring pants. The evening pieces were the most compelling here. A long white and black dress with a gold-dipped bloom at the neckline was another standout.

MELISSA TAMMERIJN (NEW YORK MODEL)

MARTHA STRECK (WOMEN)

lunes, 27 de septiembre de 2010

ICEBERG SPRING 2011 RTW

Melissa Tammerijn

Paolo Gerani and his new design team have traded in Hitchcock blondes for muses a little closer to home—Lauren Hutton, Faye Dunaway, and Farrah Fawcett, all of whom starred in the ad campaigns Oliviero Toscani lensed for Iceberg in the late seventies.

Sasha Pivovarova

That meant there was a pretty big disconnect between last season and this one, but it landed the label smack-dab in the middle of things in Milan, which is never a bad place to be.

Samantha Gradoville

What was good: the fact that Gerani and company's take on fashion's favorite decade was more impressionistic than literal. Oversize men's blazers with pushed-up sleeves, a sea blue cotton jumpsuit with embroidered straps, silk button-downs tucked into A-line skirts—we've seen enough of this sort of thing lately for it to have shed its retro associations.

Melodie Monrose

But with so many labels all over the price spectrum doing the seventies, which elements provided a compelling reason for shoppers to seek out Iceberg next spring? Not the beaded and feathered macramé tanks and scarf tops. Simpler was better here, and there was nothing simpler or better in this collection than a faded denim elastic-waist dress.