MODELOS: Giorgio Armani

martes, 4 de febrero de 2014

ARMANI PRIVÉ SPRING 2014 COUTURE

ARMANI PRIVÉ

SPRING 2014 COUTURE

It often takes a while for the rhythm of an Armani collection to get a grip. Tonight's Armani Privé couture show, the fulcrum of yet another of Giorgio Armani's One Night Only spectaculars, was no exception.

The beginning was casual, tentative: little silk tops with plissé pants or skirts, a silk jacquard blazer paired with a gazar skirt. Then a new dimension kicked in. The models—heads wrapped in scarves, with dangly earrings, in full skirts and low-heeled shoes—began to evoke the gypsy spirit of arch fashion icon Loulou de la Falaise.

That is hallowed ground for any designer, given de la Falaise's goddess/muse status with Yves Saint Laurent. You have to be a titan to take it on. Armani clearly has the cojones to claim the look.

He did it with his default position: navy blue. It's nonsense that this man is permanently damned with greige. It's North African navy where he has found his sweet spot—the midnight blue of a velvety desert sky, untroubled by ambient light, alive with stars.

Tonight's collection, named Nomade for all the tribes who drift under heaven's dome, moved on from midnight to gloss the silveriness of those stars with a Byzantine decorative edge. Alana Zimmer in a sheath of silver with Swarovski-studded bodice and head tightly bound in crystals looked like a Hollywood vamp.

It was enough to make you wonder whether the play of dark and light in an Armani collection isn't ultimately all about the boy Giorgio alone in a movie theater while war rages outside. And if this is the way he exorcises his demons, then all power to him.

BY STYLE.COM

lunes, 23 de agosto de 2010

EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING 2011 MENSWEAR

EVANDRO SOLDATI

If spring sometimes puts Armani in mind of his island retreat in the Mediterranean, this collection stayed squarely in the city, with the key silhouette for the first section being the shorts-over-leggings signature of the urban bike messenger.

For the entire first half of the show, in fact, it looked like Spring 2011 was going to be a dark place in the Emporio Armani world. Black leather dominated the collection, and a clip from Lady Gaga's "Alejandro" video that played at the finale was a reminder that Giorgio and Gaga collaborated on her latest. It was presumably the S&M erotica of that new hit that provoked one particularly dark group, with wild-boy models glowering through heavy eye makeup and sporting slave chains, studs, and grommets. This sequence also stood as a master class in the treatment of skins, some perforated till they looked like scales.

Finding his way to more familiar territory in the second half, the designer shifted the emphasis to tailoring, in fabrics so light they were almost sheer. Devil or angel? The twin poles of the collection suggested a schism that dramatic. No wonder Gaga saw a kindred spirit.