That orange was a major accent in the collection, the root of some appealing combinations (an orange Henley and army linen shorts were particularly striking), but the palette also encompassed other sophisticated mixes—pale blue and espresso, for one. The colors reinforced the sportiness that has transformed this label. It was everywhere in the details: leather piping on a cardigan, the belts that closed the pockets of a blouson, the elasticated waist and cuffs on casual pants.
The show closed on white, not just lightness, but a blank canvas on which to create another century. When the label's current caretakers, Gildo, Anna, and Paolo Zegna, brought their father Angelo, Ermenegildo's son, onto the catwalk for a bow, the audience took the only reasonable course of action. It rose to its feet and cheered.
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