Sailor pants and swimsuits are Resort standbys, but trust Donatella Versace to put her unique spin on them. She started by swapping predictable navy and white (not a very Versace combo) for candy colors like lime, orange, pink, and aqua, and accenting the collection's marinière stripes with tiny floral prints.
Vichy checks were also part of the lively mix. Next, naturally, she amped the sex appeal way, way up. Pants and skirts with double rows of Medusa-head sailor buttons were so low-slung they barely clung to models' hip bones, and sweaters were chopped well north of the belly button. Most of the jackets, too, had a squared-off, abbreviated silhouette.
Their presence made a slouchy sequined "jean" jacket worn with a matching micro mini really stand out.
Slouchy and Versace in the same sentence? It only happened once. After dark, Donatella was thinking, as she normally does, along body-loving lines. Micro-pleated tulle dresses came with strappy asymmetrical necklines, or with slashes on the torso.
The long-sleeve version was a covered-up, if not exactly demure, surprise. A black napa leather sleeveless dress didn't make the lookbook, but it was just about flawless.
STEPHANIE HALL (SUPREME)
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