miércoles, 19 de agosto de 2009

Alexis Mabille Spring 2010.

Champagne and sequins are appropriate for any time of the day or night. That's Alexis Mabille's pleasure principle. He served up both at the breakfast show that launched his first all-men's collection.

Fashion maven Katell Le Bourhis was on hand to call out the style numbers (à la old-style couture) and offer a thumbnail sketch of who might wear them, and where.

Hence, the School of Economics student in a cotton gingham shirt over a Swiss-dot tee, or the habitué of Paris nightspot Le Baron in a brocade bolero and sprayed-on jeans. (Mabille is very proud of his butt-cupping cut.)

Clearly, there was an element of unabashed campness present in the show, but the archness of the presentation truly suited the clothes. The jeweled buttons, the lamé belts, the sequins, the tiny bows that trimmed back pockets, were mere gilding on a lily of extreme proportions, extravagant fabrics and pedal-to-the-metal loucheness.

But if you were to extract ideas that might emerge in other, less untrammeled environs, Mabille's reconfiguration of the tuxedo offered some direction, particularly with a tailored hoodie in black crepe.

As for those killjoys who would pose the question about target market, Mabille trilled impishly, "This is the way I dress every day." And isn't it the mark of a born entrepreneur to address his own needs first?

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