This season, ideas about Morocco, Berber tribespeople, and equestrianism informed both narratives—not that the collection read in any literal ethnographic way.
It began with fiercely tailored, padded-shouldered coats molded into the waist and over the hips in black velvet or patinated strips of leather—the riding element—and then moved on into sarouel-influenced pants, hoods, veiled and draped silhouettes, and gold embroidery with a Middle Eastern influence.
It had drama, too: Karlie Kloss in a long white veil over an ivory patent-leather corset and cream pants, walking like some sort of science-fantasy princess.
It doesn't particularly matter any more in couture if a theme doesn't completely hold up to scrutiny.
What counts are the other tests that apply to custom-made clothes: the specialness of each individual outfit and the relevance of the clothes to what a fashion-conscious woman might want to wear.
Lara Stone (IMG)It's on those points that Tisci's work at Givenchy makes its impact. The coats and a standout black velvet jacket over draped, tile-patterned gold embroidered pants have a hip, luxe contemporary desirability.
Ditto some of the eveningwear, like a slick, high-necked, long-sleeved black pailletted gown, and—when stripped of the fluoro jeweling—the things he does with draped nude chiffon.
If Tisci's thought process sometimes lacks coherence, he is still a designer bringing a much-needed sense of modernity to an old tradition.
Abbey Lee (NEXT)
Karlie Kloss (NEXT)
Karmen Pedaru (NEXT)
Natasha Poly (WOMEN)