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The temperature in his venue hit surface-of-the-sun levels.
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But in a way the designer surely couldn't have anticipated, the heat served to heighten appreciation of his layers of ultralight tailoring.
Detaching the superfluity of a sleeve when everyone feels like going as bare as possible made sense.
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And making a tailored blazer as sheer as possible was a sensible sartorial response to climactic change.
Van Assche has always had his own kind of gym-influenced body consciousness, manifest here in a mesh top under a sheer cardigan, or knits woven in the lightest gauge, with the footwear a hefty high-top.
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The shirt-weight tailoring was a new development, and the translucence of a parka over a sleeveless jacket ensnared a couple of the season's trends.
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For evening, Van Assche suggested kimonolike lapels on another something sleeveless. At the very least—and in contrast to some of his previous Dior Homme efforts—all the pared-down athleticism gives him a platform to build on for the future.
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Thiago Santos
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