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It's interesting to chart the rise of the one-look show this season. The content and intent of the runway parade—if not its format, which is the same as ever—is beginning to change.
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Some designers and companies, it seems, are gambling that the communication of a single unmissable message, repeated over and over, might have more impact than a "collection," in the old sense of the term.
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Christopher Kane did that with his gingham checks and ivory thigh-split pleats; Burberry did it with its trenches and draping; and now Alberta Ferretti has done the same, in a show that left no doubt that her thing is the romantic chiffon dress.
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For Ferretti, it's a marketing policy that has merit. In a season when drifty, gauzy things are a topic, she's smart to claim the territory.
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After all, even when chiffonery isn't the general trend, that's what women go to this label to find—an accessible, feminine dress for a special occasion.
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Her fluttery frocks came in this season's pale palette of lingerie pinks, ivory, and cloudy beiges (embroidered with flowers or a bit of sparkle, to taste), but fragile as they may be, they actually constitute one of Milan's more robust fit-for-purpose fashion products.
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Not that there wasn't a little variation: As well as the young-nymph-in-a-vintage-nightie option, there were taffeta trenchcoats (good for a summer cover-up) and even an ivory suit with crinkle-pleated panels in front—ideal, perhaps, for a wedding, the second or third time around.
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