martes, 29 de septiembre de 2009

Jil Sander Spring 2010 RTW.

Alla Kostromicheva

Back to the land. For reasons that are purely instinctual, the emotional fallout of last year's economic crash seems to be leading a lot of creative people to think fundamentally about the vast outdoors, landscape, the elements.

Kasia Struss

That fascination has been cropping up in many style magazines lately and has caught the imaginations of Proenza Schouler and Rodarte in recent collections. In Milan, it has affected Raf Simons, too. "I find myself going back into nature," he said. "It's quite simple, as well as intellectual."

Yulia Kharlaponova

That was why his clothes took on a rough-hewn edge—dresses in which layers of fabric were peeled back and left hanging in patches; linen and gauze tailoring patched together in sheer and opaque zones; and knitwear manipulated into complex conceptual surface patterns to conceal and reveal skin in unexpected ways.

Imogen Morris Clarke

If that sounds "rustic" (which is another way this trend can take people: see Ralph Lauren)—wrong impression. Simons' look was far more conceptual than that and was inspired by looking at the work of land artists and Antonioni's 1970 film Zabriskie Point.

Yulia Lobova

We knew this because Simons spelled out his sources beforehand on multiple video screens showing clips of work by various artists, including Christo, Gordon Matta-Clark, and Richard Wilson—grainy film of land being wrapped, buildings being demolished, and so on.

Diana Farkhullina

When the show started, all the screens switched to the famous Zabriskie Point sequence of couples rolling in the dust of Death Valley, while the movie soundtrack played in the background. As a performance in real time, it was all a bit didactic, not to say distracting to watch, especially as there was already so much—too much, really—going on in the clothes.

Yulia Leontieva

What's discernible at first impression is that, aside from the showpieces, there are still plenty of the regular, neutral-toned city daywear options a businesswoman wants from Jil Sander.


Anabela Belikova

The navy pantsuit with a wider leg and a belted blazer looked modern-minimal in the house tradition, and there were many jackets, such as those in glazed hopsack linen, to service customers who can't go to work in a piece of art.

Anya Kazakova

Otherwise, what came across in this show was that Simons has gotten his way in insisting on the freedom to experiment with Jil Sander. (There was a moment last season when the shuttering of the Hamburg atelier made it seem like that era was drawing to a close.) That's a good thing, of course, though there's still a sense that he could convey more by condensing what he has to say.

Sona Matufkova

Anastasia Kuznetsova

Kendra Spears

Kimberly McCullough

Ekaterina Petkova

Flo Gennaro

Hanna Rundlof

Kristy Kaurova

Aida Aniulyte

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Daria Strokous

Valeria Dmitrienko

Nimue Smit

Mariacarla Boscono

Vlada Roslyakova

Mirte Maas

Jac

Kamila Filipcikova

Kasia Struss

Diana Farkhullina

Yulia Kharlaponova

Alla Kostromicheva

Anya Kazakova

Imogen Morris Clarke

Anabela Belikova

Yulia Lobova

Anastasia Kuznetsova

Frida Gustavsson

Hanna Rundlof

Ekaterina Petkova

Kristy Kaurova

Kimberly McCullough

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Daria Strokous

Mirte Maas

Nimue Smit

Flo Gennaro

Valeria Dmitrienko

Aida Aniulyte

Vlada Roslyakova

Kasia Struss

Mariacarla Boscono

Yulia Leontieva

Diana Farkhullina

Alla Kostromicheva

Yulia Kharlaponova
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