It was a universe away from where this guy had been heading of late (when Alexandre Plokhov last had some creative input), but Bal said after the show that he anticipated a new, younger customer would see the appeal of his proposals.
These included faux-bib-fronted shirts, a drape jacket with a shawl collar in black leather, jackets and trousers in sheeny tonic fabric, low-slung leather pants with fringes trailing from the side seams, and a big cream overcoat, also bedecked with showgirl fringe. A donkey jacket in red leather looked grown-up by comparison.
Bal is an alumnus of Dior Homme, and the new-wave leanings of that label clearly informed his work here, in items like jackets with a cutaway, crossover closing. But the collection's clearest successes—the optical silk shirts, the graphic section of swimsuits and silk robes in a black-and-white Vorticist pattern—were those that were most "Versace."
ADRIAN WLODARSKI (I LOVE)