Iceberg Spring 2010 Men´s.

The cartoonish neo-pop quality that once defined Iceberg, especially in its David LaChapelle advertising phase, has muted.

The ragazzi have grown up, or at least they're looking for something more sophisticated.

The formal detailing in the label's Spring collection included telltale touches like covered buttons and satin shawl collars, even if the final evening ensemble was suspiciously tracksuitlike.

But that kind of dressy ease was actually the essence of the Iceberg offering. The show itself featured endless variations on a theme: cotton blazers and cropped pants.

With the jacket in seersucker and the pants in jersey, things could get a little twisty, but a herringbone cardigan with generously cut denims was more the kind of studiously normal outfit that defined the show.

The invitation flagged Iceberg's Contemporary Art Museum, and there was actually something a little AbEx about the models in their jackets and rolled-up trousers, with trilbies pushed back on their heads—except that they were smiling.

As much as it was a pleasure to see people looking upbeat on a catwalk, their smiles turned to a mirthless rictus before you could say…Iceberg.