miércoles, 7 de octubre de 2009

Alexander McQueen Spring 2010 RTW.

Magdalena Frackowiak (ELITE)

It could be that Alexander McQueen—oh, and Lady Gaga, remotely—crashed through a whole new frontier in the projection of fashion shows as worldwide live entertainment Tuesday night.

Yulia Kharlaponova (WOMEN)

McQueen's collection, Plato's Atlantis, was live-streamed on Nick Knight's SHOWstudio.com, intercut with the photographer's premade video footage.

Karmen Pedaru (NEXT)

That was the plan anyway, until 30 minutes before the show, Gaga Twittered that McQueen was about to premiere her new single.

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

She has a million followers. Inevitably, before the crashing of the frontier could quite come about, SHOWstudio itself crashed.

Alla Kostromicheva (WOMEN)

Which may have replicated, in a whole new audience, the sensation of a young hopeful stuck outside a McQueen presentation, waving a standing ticket and being unable to get in.

Eugenia Mandzhieva (CITY)

Seen from on the spot, it was a big-budget production, for sure. There was a sparkling, illuminated runway in which two sinister, robotic movie cameras on gigantic black booms ran back and forth, while a screen played Knight's video of Raquel Zimmermann, lying on sand, naked, with snakes writhing across her body.

Irina Kulikova (IMG)

Then the models came out, dressed in short, reptile-patterned, digitally printed dresses, their gangly legs sunk in grotesque shoes that looked like the armored heads of a fantastical breed of antediluvian sea monster.

Yulia Leontieva (SILENT)

McQueen, according to an internal logic detailed in a press release, was casting an apocalyptic forecast of the future ecological meltdown of the world: Humankind is made up of creatures that evolved from the sea, and we may be heading back to an underwater future as the ice cap dissolves.

Amanda Laine (ELITE)

The consequences, in fashion terms? Well, it was a one-note, unmissable formula of the kind several other designers have decided is the way to communicate this season.

Alana Zimmer (WOMEN)

McQueen's message throughout was essentially sunk into the short dress—a steady development of his engineered sea-reptile prints, worked into a nipped-waist, belled-skirt silhouette.


The colors—first green and brown, moving to aqua and blue—were exceptionally executed and swagged, and molded across panniered structures. Each dress was a work of computer-generated art crossbred with McQueen's couture-based signature cut.

Valerija Kelava (NEXT)

In a section in which it looked as if McQueen was envisaging a biological hybridization of women with sea mammals, there were trousers whose bulbous flanks mimicked the skin of sharks or dolphins.

Shu Pei Qin (NEXT)

A reminder of his taste in Savile Row tailoring came via a few looks in which formfitting gray men's fabric was cut away to reveal "portholes" filled with turquoise (an effect akin to the view from a glass-bottomed boat).

Jacquelyn Jablonski (ELITE)

Finally, then? Although there was nothing to show McQueen breaking out from his set design mold, the way he's embracing new computer technologies and the drama of the moving image puts him at the leading edge of change.

Sophie Srej (IMG)

Imogen Morris Clarke (NEXT)

Marina Peres (IMG)

Egle Tvirbutaite (NEXT)

Alice Gibb (WOMEN)

Heidi Mount (IMG)

Kim Noorda (VIVA)

Anya Kazakova (MARILYN)

Constance Jablonski (ELITE)

Kate Somers (ELITE)

Diana Farkhullina (IMG)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

Tanya Dziahileva (MARILYN)

Hanne Gaby Odiele (WOMEN)

Nicola Haffmans (NEXT)

Charlotte di Calypso (ELITE)

Kristy Kaurova (MAJOR)

Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)

Marike Le Roux (MARILYN)

Drielly Oliveira (IMG)

Tara Gill (VIVA)

Svieta Nemkova (WOMEN)

Elena Melnik (SILENT)

Uliana Tikhova (ELITE)

Edythe Hughes (FORD)

Michelle Westgeest (CITY)

Yulia Lobova (MAJOR)

Anastasija Kondratjeva (ELITE)

Polina Kasina

Alexander McQueen
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